Night and day the GPS screens in the bar are slowly counting up the degrees of Latitude as we get steadily further south. Incongruously, though it was ‘sunbathing’ weather on deck today. Hung-over from a party the night before, bodies lie on the sun-warmed steel. I found myself a quiet spot on the ‘monkey deck’ – right at the top of the ship, but tucked out of the wind behind the conning tower. I bask in the fierce UV sun and read Gulliver’s Travels (albeit in hat and gloves).