11th December, South Sandwich Islands:
Sailing through the night towards Zavadovski – an erupting volcano on the northern edge of the uninhabited South Sandwich Islands. All the lights are out on the bridge, the only illumination coming faintly from the arrays of blinking buttons, radar screens, GPS monitors. Outside two powerful search lights beam out through the fog. Trained on a small patch of ocean in fornt of the ship like a ballerina’s follow spot, they create an expectant circle of immanent icebergs. All that appears, every now and then gliding through the beam, is one of the huge wandering albatross, shining impossibly white against the black rolling sea.
The air begins to lighten and the yellow blips on the radar screen show various huge bergs still passing by unseen in the fog. A fin-whale blows a jet out of the swell and rolls lazily forward as it dives away from the ship. Finally a bigger lump picked out in the ghostly yellow radar takes shape as Zavodovski Island itself. Hidden behind the fog, we can smell its fumes blowing in the air. Nearer icebergs begin to be populated with the black dots of penguins – suburbs of the millions of ‘chinstraps penguins’ inhabiting the geothermically ice-free island and adding to its smell. Finally, we can just about make out the black coast at ‘Noxious Bluff’ – but the smoking mountain stays hidden in its clouds.